Sport Climbing - Men's Boulder & Lead Final - Lead Results

Königsplatz - 18 Aug - 17:00

Competitors
Start Order	Bib	Name
1	8	FRA SCHALCK MSCHALCK Mejdi
2	7	FRA AVEZOU SAVEZOU Sam
3	6	ITA SCHENK FSCHENK Filip
4	5	AUT SCHUBERT JSCHUBERT Jakob
5	4	AUT UZNIK NUZNIK Nicolai
6	3	ESP GINÉS LÓPEZ AGINÉS LÓPEZ Alberto
7	2	SLO POTOČAR LPOTOČAR Luka
8	1	CZE ONDRA AONDRA Adam

Königsplatz - 18 Aug - 17:00 -
Official

Results
Rank	Bib	Name	Score	Points
1	5	AUT SCHUBERT JSCHUBERT Jakob	49+	95.1	YC
2	1	CZE ONDRA AONDRA Adam	48+	90.1
3	6	ITA SCHENK FSCHENK Filip	48+	90.1
4	3	ESP GINÉS LÓPEZ AGINÉS LÓPEZ Alberto	48	90.0
5	2	SLO POTOČAR LPOTOČAR Luka	47+	85.1
6	7	FRA AVEZOU SAVEZOU Sam	38+	40.1
7	8	FRA SCHALCK MSCHALCK Mejdi	30+	15.1
8	4	AUT UZNIK NUZNIK Nicolai	21+	1.1

Climbing Time: 6:00

Observation Time: 6:00

Legend

YC:: Yellow Card

See more Reports PDF files

Unit Reports

Event Reports

ESP

GINÉS LÓPEZ AGINÉS LÓPEZ Alberto

On winning boulder and lead combined bronze

On adding boulder and lead combined bronze to lead bronze:
“It’s amazing. Today was a new day and yesterday’s results didn’t matter. I’m super happy to prove myself in this new format that will be in the next Olympics (Paris 2024).”

On nearly completing lead:
“This last left hand was so hard, and I couldn’t fit it in the last hole. It took me out, but I couldn’t do much more. I was already so tired, and I needed that extra strength.”

On his boulder performance:
“I was very happy with it. I proved that I can be competitive in boulder too. It was very helpful for me in the next competition.”

On winning boulder and lead combined silver

On winning a third European Championships medal:
“I enjoyed today because I knew that no matter what I did after the individual disciplines, no matter what I do in the combined finals it would be a successful competition. The boulder competition was really successful for me even though I felt like maybe I could do something different.

“It was pretty obvious that it would come down to the lead competition between Jakob (SCHUBERT, AUT - gold)and me, and it was Jakob who won today.”

On his rivalry with gold medallist SCHUBERT:
“I’ve had him as a major, major rival in lead for more than 10 years and every time it is either Jakob or me. Today he was very clever, and I have to accept that, but it makes me motivated for next time.”

“It was a great competition that’s why I really enjoyed my time here. Today I might be a little bit disappointed, especially considering I knew I could have done better, but that’s climbing.”

On his three-month-old son Ugo watching him live on TV:
“He watched me on the lead climbing. At the beginning of the finals, he was sleeping but when I started climbing, he woke up.”

On Munich 2022:
“I think it was one of the best competitions that I have participated in terms of the atmosphere and venue. The venue is probably the best I’ve ever seen. The route setting in most of the rounds could have been a bit better but for the route setters it’s most often about luck.”

AUT

SCHUBERT JSCHUBERT Jakob

On winning boulder and lead gold

On winning gold:
“I was disappointed I didn’t win a medal in lead as I won the semifinal, but then it was slightly not enough for a medal. I knew there was one discipline left and I wanted to give my all. I can go back home with a medal.”

On his battle with Adam Ondra (CZE):
(After boulder) we were all basically the same and Adam had this slight lead of 0.3 points, which would have been enough (for him) to climb as far as me. After having a really nice lead performance, I was quite happy with my climbing. I thought silver is secured, but there’s no way I’m having gold because Adam is still coming.

“After not solving the first boulder problem I thought I had really missed my chance to secure gold, or it would have made my job much easier. When I found the lead route I felt like it was a really good performance, but I was 100 per cent (sure) that Adam would climb as far as me and beat me because of his score in boulder.

“I was sure Adam was going to climb as far as me in lead and then beat me because of bouldering but then somehow he fell one move earlier. This time he climbed slightly worse than me in the last lap. I climbed slightly worse than him in the lead finals, and yeah, this time I got a gold. It’s the perfect ending to an amazing competition.

On doing boulder and lead on the same day:
“I felt pretty good. Four boulders and one lead, I think we can do it, we are used to it. Obviously, it’s a special format, and we’ve never experienced it before. It was really important to make this final. We knew because of Tokyo 2020 that there are not many of these tests before the Olympic games, so every test is valuable.”